Black and Blue Expressionism
Like the Rolling Stones album, the primary colors and thrust in the latest Karl Lagerfeld collection was Black and Blue, meaning clothes with rock ‘n roll attitude and sharp edged tailoring.
The collection, shown Wednesday morning in Paris, was certainly austere – there was not a print in sight; yet the models looked strangely approachable. Whether it was the funky double string fishnet stockings, pink golfing gloves, fire engine red nail varnish or Deep Purple S&M strapped booties; these are funky gals for whom a late night romp in dark nightclubs is a de rigueur weekly appointment.
“Some people say the collection looks like me; but it’s me what I see, not me who I am,” Lagerfeld told FWD backstage. The most sartorially watched designer in fashion, Lagerfeld himself was attired in biker boots, pants tucked in, and a black spy trench from Dior Homme. “What can I say, I am built for that label.”
One of the nice things about being Karl Lagerfeld is that you get to use the best models in the world, and his casting of alluring Lara, Irish dancing Coco and permanently surprised Gemma was ideal. Cleverly, hair stylist Odile Gilbert kitted them out with midnight blue hair extensions, echoing snug jackets in the same hue.
Great silk jersey cocktails with cut out shoulders, devilishly well cut pencil pants, a series of taut dresses with metallic leather swirls and a couple with crystal bodices – in particular on Dutch model Stone – were standouts in this fall 2007 collection. A little more rigorous editing would have cut a Cardin-like olive green military coat, but overall this was a well-pruned show, a dark tale for cerebral night prowlers and a useful tutorial in fashion staging. No surprise then where it took place – La Sorbonne, the Continent’s most famous university.